There was a sense of satisfaction and a tinge of sadness as we flew out of Paro. The places we visited were simply wonderful. People who crossed our paths were genuinely nice. All in all it was a good holiday with good memories.
We enjoyed the chatter and information shared during the many hours we spent with our guide Nim Tshering and driver, Jigme – in the car and whilst walking to and back from the many places we visited. I am sure I will be jolted into remembering interesting factoids via conversations, sights, sounds and nostalgia over time.
A few of my favourite likes and takeaways:
- Colourful flags and buntings are hoisted on bridges, hillsides, hilltops, and open spaces for the winds to carry prayers to the gods.
- Little stupas are thoughtfully placed under large rocks, along roads and hillsides, in memory of family members who have passed. The mound–like conical shaped structures stand around three to five inches in height and usually total 108.
- Open attics between the roof and the top floor of traditional houses that look like gaping holes or gaps ( at least to me) are used to dry chilli and store produce etc. Access to the attic is by climbing a steep ladder usually carved out of a whole tree trunk. Stones are placed on the roof to prevent it from being blown away by strong winds. The first floor of the house is for family members and it usually has three rooms; an altar, a shared bedroom that doubles up as a living/dining area and a kitchen. The ground floor is for animals, mainly cows used to till the farm land.
- The family home is inherited by the oldest daughter or female member of the family. Yes, it is a matrilineal society. (Nim’s family home has been passed down to his oldest sister but the other four brothers including Nim have a share to the family land, which if I understood correctly, is enough to build a house each.)
- Each family conducts prayers and ceremonies on auspicious dates and months to ensure abundant harvest, good health and prosperity. Expenses for these ceremonies are shared among family members.
- Locating people is not easy in Bhutan despite having their full name or two names for reference. (I discovered this only because my sisters, who have been to Bhutan asked me say ‘hi’ to their tour guide, Sangay Dorji. Naively I asked if I could meet with Sangay Dorji. The look I got said, “Are you kidding me?” Now I know better. It is as good as landing in KL, and asking if I knew Siva or Ahmad? There are many Sangay Dojis and Nim Tsherings in Bhutan. Bhutanese do not have or include a family name. Traditionally, religious persons bless newborns with prescribed names. Babies named by the same religious person will share the same name for instance Tshering or Lhamo. Nim was named Nim or Nima by his dad because he was born on a Saturday. So his full name is Nima Tshering.)
- Pine leaves are collected from the woods, and then matted for cows to lie on. How thoughtful.
- In times past, the two most important items men had on their being or carried were a dagger or a knife and a cup. The cup was for a drink with a friend and the knife was to fend off a foe.
- Monks, sometimes, sit for exams in ‘open-air’ halls. Like the one in Paro Valley. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we all had exam halls like this one?
- Yak cheese is an acquired taste. The ones we had were hard little squares, like sweets or hard candy but devoid of much taste. Still, worth a try.
- Butter tea was not my cup of tea but certainly a firm favourite among locals. I guess because it is tummy-warming in the colder months. The tea itself tasted a little slimy but the rice crispies gave it a nice crunch.
- There are many, many general stores in Bhutan.
- The Bhutanese people wear their national dress well. They look naturally attractive and comfortable. The Gho for men is a knee-length robe tied at the waist by the kera (belt) that is worn with a shirt or t-shirt and leggings or thermal pants underneath. Men store betel nut, mobile phones, car keys etc in the sleeve and pouch of the Gho. The beautiful Kira worn by women is an ankle-length dress with a blouse, clipped with brooches (koma). The Gho and Kira are made from colourful fabrics comprising cotton checks and stripes to intricate designs in woven silk.
- Chewing betel nut is prevalent in Bhutan. Men and women, young and old, chew betel nut as evidenced by their stained teeth and splotches of red spit on pavements. Jigme told us he needs betel-nut rehab to cure his addiction. Ha! Ha!
- Mobile phones are everywhere…
- On the daily low-season tariff of US$200 per person, fixed by the Tourism Council of Bhutan, US$65 covers a sustainable development fee that goes towards free education, free healthcare, poverty alleviation, along with the building of infrastructure in Bhutan. (Forking out US$400 per day for my husband and me was painful but it also included a minimum three-star accommodation, all meals, and a licensed Bhutanese tour guide for the duration of our stay, all internal transport and all internal taxes and charges including entry fees to all the places we visited. I griped less knowing a portion of the tariff was used for several good causes[1].
- Bhutan is also known as Druk yul, meaning the land (yul) of the Thunder Dragon (Druk)[2].
- The national animal, Takin, looks like a made-up animal to me, a hotchpotch of different animal parts pieced together. From a far it could be a cow or goat or a deer. Up close it still had me guessing. The abridged version about the origins of the Takin states that the Lama Drukpa Kuenley, also known as the Divine Madman had put together a goat and cow to form the Takin to show his magical powers to the people who had mocked him[3].
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