“Will there be posh people?” my sister asked. “What will you wear, what will be served and how do you speak to posh people?” I didn’t know the answers to be honest.

Far from being posh and of the jeans and t-shirt variety, my husband and I were not entirely sure how this whole experience was going to turn out.  It was our 20th anniversary and we booked to travel on the Eastern & Oriental express.

It was certainly posh as this was the first time we received a 65-page travel journal, yes 65 pages long that included curated photos with attractive ‘model’ passengers. The journal detailed our itinerary, contained loads of other information and the dress code, which was casual chic.  We were in foreign territory. What fun!

We took a year off, a sort of delayed gap year in 2012 to travel to many parts of the world with only one caveat – a 20 kg weight limit on our checked-in luggage to meet both the full fare and budget airlines’ requirement we flew on.  Evening dresses have never been a consideration in our travels.

Strangely, this was one of the things that got us excited about as part of our holiday prep. The idea of playing dress up was fun and we embraced it. My husband readied himself with a suit and bow tie while I went on a shopping spree and bought myself seven very dressy dresses. And, an open-toed high heels shoes.  Tad over the top but it was all so invigorating.

Our E & O experience began at the Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

We were greeted with Singapore Slings, naturally, and snacks while we signed in for the trip. At registration, we were offered two-time slots for dinner and lunch and were asked if we would like to share our table and dine with some other passengers.   I guess this was our opportunity to find out how posh people spoke or how to speak to posh people but we opted not to as we wanted to enjoy our own company. Truth be told, we are a little anti-social.

During a 40 minute bus ride to the Woodlands Train Checkpoint, we were presented with some interesting information about Singapore’s history and enviable economic growth. Immigration formalities smoothly out-of-the-way, and after photos in front of its regal green and gold logo, we alighted the grand E & O Express luxury train. Admittedly, at this point we couldn’t help but feel rather posh.  We didn’t know what and how it happened, but it did.  If not posh, then privileged.

We settled into our luxuriously furnished State cabin to begin the best train ride of our lives.
Immediately we were served tea, which true to form came with warm, delicious scones and fresh cream and a wonderful choice of tea and brewed coffee.

Service was faultless. We had one steward assigned to our carriage which comprised four cabins. Our steward was Monty. He was absolutely brilliant. The journey from Singapore to Bangkok took two nights and three days. On board, we had a train manager, chefs, a piano player and over 40 staff.  There were 46 passengers, mostly ‘posh’.

Our State cabin comprised a chair and a sofa that could be converted into two single beds.  A night table, a work table and a chair, a wardrobe with hangars to hang our evening dresses, hmm, plus several shelves and compartments snugly fit to hold luggage and other stuff. A small but comfortable toilet with a basin and shower made up the balance of the cabin. The other accommodations available were the Pullman Cabin that offered bunk beds and at the top end was the Presidential Cabin.

Our cabin didn’t feel claustrophobic because there was enough room for two adults to occupy; we could look out at the changing scenery or walk to the Wi-Fi-accessible observation car that was one part closed and air-conditioned, and the other open. The open carriage allowed us to stick our heads out to look at the on-coming scenery. This was not recommended especially as the train almost and sometimes did brush against trees and sign posts along the way. We could also visit the restaurants, piano bar, the library or enjoy foot reflexology that were all located in different carriages. There were 16 carriages in all on this trip.

Walking on the train was bumpy to say the least. I did get tossed about and it was certainly not the correct terrain for open-toed heels. Ambitious was I. That said, I did see some literally ‘well-heeled’ ladies.

Both lunch and dinner were equally wonderful experiences.  We enjoy food but this was a culinary journey of discovery. The presentations were visually tantalizing and did not belie the gorgeous tastes.  Every meal was a delight to our taste buds. They were a fusion of east and west and clever and bold flavours that just worked.  I mean who would have thought of serving a medley of chocolate and pandan mousse on crispy hazelnut praline with orange segments and coconut coulis, but there it was a medley of taste acrobatics.  Dessert was always followed by Petit Fours or Mignardises, bite sized rich chocolates and buttery biscuits.  Compliments to the Executive Chef, Yannis Martineau and his kitchen staff.  Great job.

At our first dinner, we were asked if we would like  digestives.  I realised it was not the biscuit kind only because I caught sight of the waiter holding out a bottle of alcohol.   Each night after our five-course meal, we adjourned to the piano bar to listen to Peter, the resident pianist, belt out some catchy numbers.  The combination of the moving train, the plush interior and ‘posh’ people mingling, drinking and chatting, made the atmosphere almost surreal and ended each day on a memorable note

We made two stops along the way, one in Malaysia and the other in Thailand. Our first excursion was the royal town of Kuala Kangsar.  Although we have been to Kuala Kangsar before it felt nicely different.  We viewed the Istana Lembah, now home to the Royal Museum of Perak, which has the distinction of being built without a single nail. We also visited the magnificent Ubudiah Mosque and the Sultan Azlan Shah gallery that commemorates his prolific life via telling exhibits.

Our second trip was to the infamous railway and River Kwai Bridge, made popular by the movie The Bridge over the River Kwai.  We cruised along the Khwae Yai river, and stopped at a strategic spot to capture some treasured photos of the E & O Express crossing the River Kwai.

Poignant and painful, were our visits to the Thailand-Burma Railway Museum and the Don Rak war cemetery; the many, many lives lost while building the aptly known, Death Railway.  Like clockwork, both excursions were well planned and efficiently executed.

Shortly after leaving Kanchanaburi, the E & O Express arrived in Bangkok, our final destination. It was a little sad to come to the end of our journey but having enjoyed the plush accommodation, panoramic views, excellent service, company of friendly staff and delectable cuisine, it ranks as a once-in-a-lifetime holiday that we will long remember.