I didn’t require prompting. Astro, the satellite-TV broadcaster that my mum subscribes to, promoted its programs and live coverage of the event on its Tamil channels. There were articles in the media on the number of ‘thanir panthals’/stalls and devotees expected at Batu Caves in Selangor, and in Penang this year. Traffic signages announced road closures for the outbound and return chariot processions. And, of course the public holiday was a definite reminder of the occasion.
Dedicated to Lord Murugan, Thaipusam is a religious celebration about faith, vows and penance. To prepare for the occasion, devotees who have vows to fulfil, fast for several days on simple vegetarian meals and remain celibate. On the day, they bathe and wear mainly yellow or saffron coloured clothes. Some shave their heads. Some carry pots of milk. Some carry ‘kavadis’ that include piercings on the skin/body, tongue or cheek with ‘vel’ skewers.
Many, many years ago, my dad and his brothers/my uncles made vows, and carried ‘kavadis.’ Vows, could be for any number of meaningful things. For instance, the recovery of a sick family member or the arrival of a baby after struggling with conception. Yes, Thaipusam is about faith and believe. I vaguely remember my youngest uncle having the ‘vel’ skewers pieced on his body. Remarkably, there was no blood even when the skewers were removed. Hmm.
This year was a little different. I listened to the Thaipusam songs and tears rolled down my face. I was sad-nostalgic. I didn’t know the meaning of most of the lyrics. I couldn’t understand the emotion. My best guess was it was related to my childhood. It was an important annual celebration that the whole family, especially my dad, looked forward to. He talked about it excitedly, and made plans to travel from Alor Setar to Penang to celebrate the 3-day festival. We did this pilgrimage frequently. He said he could feel it in the air. To be fair, there was an air of festivity in the Pearl of the Orient. It felt like the island and people, regardless of race, religion and nationality, joined in the celebration. Nice.
Growing up, I remember one particular year, we were in Penang on 2 of the 3-day festival. We watched the ‘kavadis’ on Thaipusam day. Returned home. Next afternoon, we headed back to Penang, which was 115 kms away, via the trunk roads. Long before there were highways. We walked, in parts, with the chariot on its return journey from the Waterfall temple to Penang Street. The chariot was drawn by bulls. There was a generator that lit the long line of light bulbs that people carried on both sides of the road. The night was bright. The moon was full. The chariot stopped for devotees who performed prayers and the breaking of coconuts. Mountains of them. As quickly as the coconuts were broken, they were swept clean by people with baskets. I used to wonder about those sweeper-uppers. We returned home just as the sun was rising over the padi fields in the early hours of the morning. These images were vivid this year, rekindling other Thaipusam related memories.
While at university, my friend and I did the outbound walk with the chariot from Sri Maha Mariamman temple in Jalan Bandar, now known as Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, to the Sri Subramaniar Swamy temple in Batu Caves. We started the journey at about 4am. Walked along Jalan Ipoh (the route is different now) and arrived at around 2pm at Batu Caves. I think there were stalls that offered free drinks and snacks along the way. It was a long and hot journey but I remember it rather fondly, now. I am not sure why we did it but I’m glad we did.
While at work, a colleague and I skived off and visited Batu Caves on Thaipusam day. We took the free train, yes, then free train, which was expectedly sardine-parked with people. Did a walkabout. Ate packed free food offered at the stalls opened for the celebration. Returned via the same free train. It was quite an experience.
Having not done a ‘Penang-Thaipusam’ since my dad passed, my husband and I made a special trip just for the occasion many years ago. We stayed in a hotel close to the Waterfalls temple so that we could watch the ‘kavadis’ and people walk to the temple on the hill. Also, visit the many stalls operated by various companies and charities. It was a happy-sad-nostalgic stroll down memory lane.
I listen to Thaipusam songs and watch some coverage on TV every year. That said, I’m not a regular Thaipusam goer. This year, my interest was piqued. Maybe, Thaipusam 2024. Hmm.
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